World travel and photography. Let's wander.

A Miami Icon – The Deering Estate

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This is an article about photography

Sometimes you see a photo and know what it is without really knowing what it is.  I suspect most people who see the feature photo know it has something to do with Miami.  If you are over 40, then you probably know it from the opening of Miami Vice.  Others may have seen in in travel or tourism campaigns.

 

And technically, it isn’t even in Miami (although it is in Dade County).

 

The iconic image is actually the boat basin on the former estate of Charles Deering who was the first chairman of International Harvester.  The rest of the estate is nice, but not overly ornate – certainly not as plush as Vizcaya – the home of his brother James located north in the Coconut Grove section of Miami.  The home sits on Cutler Bay and faces due east, where the lined palms trees reflect in the water perfectly at sunrise.

 

I’ve wanted to photograph this for some time, but while the home is open to the public, that access is normally restricted to daytime hours. However, occasionally the county parks department which now owns the estate hosts sunrise photography gatherings.  Usually it fills up quickly.

 

Unfortunately, these events don’t start quite as early as I would like.  They call it sunrise photography, but by the time the sun starts coming up the best light is gone.  I like to be out shooting almost an hour before official sunrise.  The shot above is literally the third shot I took.  If you go just be prepared to shoot as soon as they let you in.  Also, if you want the sun perfectly centered over the basin, try to go in September.  My trip was in August and the sunrise was just to the left of the basin.

 

You need to sign up through the Miami-Dade Parks and the cost is $20.  Go to http://www.deeringestate.org/photography/  for more information.

Canadian Rockies – Part 1 (Banff National Park)

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Every landscape photographer has a bucket list of ultimate destinations.  It’s a pretty safe bet that places like New Zealand, Patagonia, Peru, Italy, Iceland, the American West and the Canadian Rockies on are each of those lists.  Having just spent 8 days in Alberta, Canada – it’s easy to see why our northern neighbors have earned their spot.

The landscape is truly stunning.  Majestic mountains reach towards the sky, with many snowcapped all year long, the result of both altitude and ancient glaciers. The foothills of those mountains are home to beautiful aqua-colored lakes and rivers.  The color comes from “rock flour”, or the glaciers wearing away at the mountains and the particles flowing into and suspending in the water below. The water and cover from the terrain provides the perfect habitat for an abundance of wildlife.

At any given moment driving the scenic backroads or hiking the trails you’re likely to run into elk, caribou, mountain goats, deer, big horn sheep and variety of bird and water fowl.  And if you’re lucky enough (and careful enough), there are plenty of bears to be seen as well.

Banff Bow Highway River v2 - HDRWEB

During my trip, I really wanted to hit two well known parks – Banff National Park and Jasper National Park.  I decided to start with Banff, and that is what this article will focus on.  Part two will cover my Jasper experience.

A piece of advice, if you don’t like crowds you might want to skip Banff the first week of July as it is extremely busy.  July 1 is Canada Day and locals turn it into a long holiday weekend.  Add in Americans crossing the border for a July 4 getaway, and a large Asian tourist population and it becomes very crowded. My four days in Banff was bumper to bumper RVs and tour buses, although there are quiet places where you can escape.

If you’re flying in, the best way to get to Banff is from Calgary, which is a 90-minute drive if you don’t stop to take pictures (which is hard to resist).

There aren’t many towns and it does limit the options for lodging and services, and you need to book well in advance for any option.

  • Stay in Lake Louise, which is the premium destination. The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise puts you right in the middle of a picture post card.  Just be prepared to skip a mortgage payment (or three).
  • About 50km/30miles south is the town of Banff. There is also a Fairmont hotel here, but other hotels, lodges and condos-for-rent exist.  Banff also has plenty of restaurants and shops once your exploring is done.
  • At the far south end of Banff (70km/42mi) is the town of Canmore. Accommodations here are relatively less expensive, but you can still easily spend $200+ per night during peak season.  Dining and shopping options aren’t as extensive as Banff, but the downtown district is worth a visit.
  • The other options include RV rentals, hostels, and camping. Campsites in the park fill up quickly and require permits. Many of the hostels are geared towards backpackers and require a hike into the back country.

Banff Vermillion Lake - HDRWEB

Once you have arrived at Banff and figured out where to stay, then it’s time to explore.  For the best experience, it is best to get an early start to avoid the crowds.  Assuming your body clock and personal motivation let you, this is made easier because in July the days are extremely long – not quite land of the midnight sun – but not far from it.  Sunrise is around 5:15am, but at 4:00am there is plenty of light.  Sunset is around 10:15pm, but light remains well after.  You don’t really have to leave at 4am, but 7am would be a very good idea.

Here are the places you’ll want to hit:

  • Lake Louise – It’s beautiful, it’s historic and the hotel is like a castle.  Go see it, but go before 9am or don’t bother.
  • Moraine Lake – This is adjacent to Lake Louise. Louise gets all the attention, but Moraine might be the better experience if you’re not staying at the hotel.   If you’re into photography, there is much more to see and photograph here.  Getting to Moraine requires a 7 mile drive up narrow mountain roadway.  The road is closed October through May and becomes a cross country ski trail.
  • Vermillion Lakes – These two shallow lakes are essentially wetlands nestled at the base of Mt. Rundle and are located just outside the town of Banff. It’s somewhat hidden, and as such a less crowded.  This might have been my favorite location on the trip.  30 minutes sitting alone on a small dock overlooking the lake was just the stress reliever I needed.
  • Bow Valley Parkway – This is a scenic drive just off the Trans-Canada Highway. It starts in the town of Banff and ends at Lake Louise Drive.  Take your time, drive slow, enjoy the scenery and keep and eye out for the critters.
  • Lake Minnewanka – The lake is the largest in the Canadian Rockies and is a popular spot for boating, hiking, biking and picnics along the shores many parks. The easiest access is off Highway 1 near the town of Banff.

Banff Moraine Lake Canoes v3 - HDRWEB

 

Important Notes:

  • Park Pass. Everything inside the national park boundary requires having a park pass. This includes traveling Highway 1 and the Bow Valley Parkway.  If you are spending more than a few days, get the annual pass.  It is currently good for two years and covers all Canadian National Parks.  Additional fees apply for camping and fishing.
  • Bear spray. It’s both an investment and an insurance policy.  The stuff is about $50 a can and they sell it at the tire store among other places.  That’s a lot for something you hope you don’t need and can’t take back with you on an airplane.  If you going to hike off the main road you probably want it.  I chose to stay closer to my car.

 

What were your experiences in Banff?  Feel free to share in the comments section.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edinburgh – An Unexpected Surprise

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It was supposed to be a quick stop on the way to the Isle of Skye.  Grab the rental car, make a couple quick stops, and then go.  I hadn’t actually given Edinburgh much consideration, and that was really a mistake.  Scotland’s capital city has much to offer!

 

My original plan had been to take the train from London, but the return fare was ridiculously expensive pushing the round trip cost to about $400US.  A quick search found a round trip flight from Heathrow for $140US. This would cut the total travel by 7 hours, give me a little extra time in Edinburgh, and have me back at Heathrow for my return to Miami.

 

That said, the Virgin Atlantic flight I booked was the most uncomfortable I’ve ever been on an airplane. The row spacing was so tight I could barely squeeze in or drop my backpack between my legs.  Thankfully, it was less than 90 minutes in each direction.

 

After arriving in Edinburgh, the next big challenge was driving.  This would be my first attempt at driving on the other side of the road.  I kept telling myself it can’t be that different.  It is.  Technically, it’s not really that different but when you’ve been doing something one way for 35 years, it’s hard to retrain your instincts on the fly.  And with that I immediately entered an airport restricted area as soon as I left the car rental lot.  Maybe this was a mistake? Fortunately, people were nice enough to get me redirected and I was off to the city.

 

After checking into the Novotel hotel and a quick nap I was off to explore and I found Edinburgh very walkable.  From the hotel it was just a few blocks to Edinburgh Castle.  At the base of the castle is a wonderful park – Princes Street Gardens.  This reminded me of the Seurat painting Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte with all the people laying on blankets, having picnics, and enjoying the beautiful day.

 

The park has a number of nice features.  On one end is the Parish Church of St. Cuthbert’s.  On the other end is the Gardener’s Cottage also known as Great Aunt Lizzie’s, a reference to a popular UK children’s program.  In the middle of the park is the cast iron Ross Fountain.  During my visit it was blocked off for maintenance, so I didn’t get the photo I had wanted. The park also has a hillside prairie and walking path leading up to the castle. The view from the hillside was quite nice and I thought it would make an excellent sunset photo.  Unfortunately, it turns out the park closes 30 minutes before sunset, and my staking out the perfect spot was wasted as the police kicked me out.  Given that Edinburgh’s finest overlooked my earlier airport incident I decided it was best to leave quickly.

 

Gardener's Cottage aka Great Aunt Lizzy's

Gardener’s Cottage aka Great Aunt Lizzy’s

Edinburgh Castle w/Ross Fountain in foreground

Edinburgh Castle w/Ross Fountain in foreground

Adjacent to Princes Street is Rose Street.  This pedestrian street is filled with assorted shops, restaurants and pubs.  Everything I missed during my trip to London was found on this block – including my long awaited curry.  And it was definitely worth the wait.  Tipu’s Indian Lounge is actually in the basement, but you enter at street level.  The food was excellent, and the service was very good, although maybe a little pushy.  They almost insist you get an appetizer so I gave in and got the skewered chicken tikka masala.  It was very flavorful.  I also ordered the chicken manchory, a tandoori dish with garlic, ginger and chiles. It was nicely spiced but not overly hot.  The garlic naan was amazing and the perfect compliment to the meal.  Prices were reasonable, but not inexpensive.  A full meal with appetizer, entrée, side dish, and wine will run $30-35 GBP.

 

Part two of my Edinburgh adventure was on my return from Skye.  Last year my parents visited Edinburgh on their tour of the UK and highly recommended the Royal Yacht Britannia. When I arrived back in Edinburgh the weather was not the best but I decided to tour the Yacht in the morning.  The weather probably worked in my favor as it wasn’t busy at all, which was surprising for a Saturday.

 

As I’ve mentioned in other posts, I’m not big on potential tourist traps, but the Britannia was quite enjoyable.  It might be the best self guided tour I’ve been on.  Once you enter, the staff gives you a hand held device much like a phone.  As you go the tour, you just press the number on the phone device that corresponds to the point in the tour.  These worked well and it was easy to navigate.  The Brittania by design was built to be comfortable. The Queen rejected the original plans which were much more formal. Plan on about 90 minutes to tour the multiple levels.  There is also a tea room on-board where you can partake in a traditional tea service.  The Britannia also has an on-board fudge shop and there is the requisite gift shop as you depart.

 

After leaving the yacht, I drove back towards downtown intending to squeeze in Edinburgh Castle which I missed on the first day.  But the traffic was bad, the parking scarce, and lines were long.  The castle would have to wait for another day.  Besides I was still thinking about the curry from a few days back and decided lunch and another walk along Princes Street was a better option before heading back to the airport.

 

Certainly, you can’t see much of a city in two half days, but you can see enough to know that you want to go back.  And Edinburgh definitely warrants a return trip. Next time, I think I’ll skip the city driving.

 

Have you been to Edinburgh?  What was your experience?  Leave your recommendations in the feedback section.

 

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